Stage 20: El Burgo Ranero → Mansilla de las Mulas

A New Stage Day – Introduction & Atmosphere

After a night in El Burgo Ranero, where the frogs croak in the lagoons, the path begins westward. Today awaits a short, flat stage through the plains of León – straight, open, and shaped by fields. Many pilgrims find it monotonous, yet this is precisely where its special charm lies: a day for meditation, for walking in your own rhythm.

The goal is Mansilla de las Mulas, a lively small town with rich history and a medieval core. There, on the banks of the Río Esla, ends a stage less marked by changes in landscape, but all the more by silence and history.

Route & Elevation Profile

Distance: 18.8 km
Elevation gain/loss: +95 m / –100 m
Difficulty: easy
Character: Almost entirely flat, long straight paths parallel to the road, little shade.

Variants & Notes

Shaded track: From Calzada del Coto stretches the well-known avenue of trees (plane tree row) for more than 30 km, offering pilgrims shade and a steady rhythm.
Mobility: Also manageable for pilgrims with limitations, only caution is needed at crossings and stony sections.
Cyclists: Mostly pleasant, occasionally stony, but without major obstacles.

Description of the Path – With All Senses

From El Burgo Ranero you head out via Calle Real, passing a large lagoon. Then the track continues straight ahead – an avenue of trees offers shade here and there, while left and right lies the endless sea of fields.

After about 12 kilometers you reach Reliegos, a classic street village with houses of clay and adobe. Here once crossed three Roman military roads, and some historians suspect this to be the ancient “Pelontium.” Today it is a typical pilgrim village, with bodegas on the edge of town and the church of San Cornelio and San Cipriano.

From Reliegos the path continues downward into the valley of the Río Esla. The track accompanies you almost to Mansilla. Across a bridge you finally reach the town, whose medieval structure with walls and gates is still recognizable today.

Intermediate Places & Special Features

Place	Distance from Start	Special Feature	Tip
Reliegos	12.6 km	Adobe houses, crossing of Roman roads, church of San Cornelio & San Cipriano	Explore bodegas on the edge of town
Mansilla de las Mulas	18.8 km	Medieval town, old city walls, churches, Río Esla	Good destination before León – rest day possible

Packing & Shopping Tips

On the way only Reliegos has shops and bars – take enough water and snacks in advance.
Sun protection remains essential, as long stretches are without shade.
In Mansilla good supply options for the coming day to León.

Food, Accommodation & Services

El Burgo Ranero: Albergue Doménico Laffi (donativo), Albergue La Laguna.
Reliegos: Many albergues (Don Gaiferos, Gil, La Parada, Las Hadas, Vive tu Camino).
Mansilla de las Mulas: Classic pilgrim accommodations such as Albergue municipal, El Jardín del Camino, Gaia – plus hotels and pensions.

The Special Aspect Today

The stage may seem monotonous in terms of landscape, yet it leads right through the history of the old Kingdom of León. The straight paths follow old routes, once used by Romans and later by monks.

Reliegos is a place closely tied to Roman traces: three old military roads met here, and even today the straight streets and clay architecture recall a time when the village was a crossroads of roads and cultures.

The destination, Mansilla de las Mulas, is of special importance. The town was an important stage point on the medieval Way of St. James and was already mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus as the station of the eighth day’s stage. King Fernando II of León granted Mansilla city rights in 1181 and had it fortified – remains of the city wall are still visible today. The name itself (“de las Mulas”) refers to the markets where mules were traded.

The churches of Santa María and San Martín, the ethnographic museum visit, or the gate of the old city wall tell stories of power, trade, and devotion. The Esla River, which one crosses, is not only a geographical passage, but also a symbol: whoever reaches Mansilla is close to León – one of the great highlights of the Camino.

Thus, this stage becomes a quiet bridge: between ancient roads, medieval city history, and the anticipation of the coming big city León.

Reflection at the End of the Stage

In the evening in Mansilla it is worth taking a walk along the city walls. The silence of the Meseta still lies within you, but the liveliness of the town already announces the next step: León. Here you realize how the Camino prepares you – through emptiness to inner peace, before a big city once again captivates you.

📊 Tabular Overview

Stage	Start	Goal	Distance	Elevation Gain/Loss	Difficulty	Intermediate Places
20	El Burgo Ranero	Mansilla de las Mulas	18.8 km	+95 / –100 m	easy	Reliegos

🌌 Camino of the Stars – Stage 20:

El Burgo Ranero → Reliegos → Mansilla de las Mulas

Have you ever seen the old walls in Mansilla or tried the “Tomate de Mansilla”? Share your memories – they give this seemingly unspectacular stage its character.